By Mary Bergin
I have a soft spot for Mom and Pop joints that survive because of deep customer loyalty and simple fare done well, typically in modest confines. Some are diners that thrive because of their gritty counter culture – blue-plate specials, fat slices of pie, big breakfasts and cheap, strong coffee. Most important, perhaps, are the seating and attitude, which ease and encourage conversation between strangers.
Some of our most-loved diners, however, are also dives because of their uninspiring décor, lack of imagination in tableware or menu, dim lighting and countertops chipped beyond repair. The exterior might benefit from a coat of fresh paint, a flash of neon signage – anything to lessen the Plain Jane, pass-me-by-why-don’t-ya? appearance.
Gussy ’em up too much, though, and these places lose their personality. That would be a shame. Which places define diner/dive dining, or defy stereotypes in interesting ways? Narrowing the list to 10 was an almost-cruel exercise in judgment.
CHARCOAL INN 920.458.6988; 1313 S. 8TH ST. AND 1637 GEELE AVE., SHEBOYGAN Standard fare in Sheboygan, any time of year, is a charcoal-grilled burger or brat, plus sides of potato salad and baked beans. That meal is at the core of business for Scott and Roger Prescher, who have owned this enterprise since 1984, earning attention from Gourmet and Money magazines. A “side” of potato salad likely is enough for two. Creamy baked beans arrive in a cute little brown pot, a pad of butter swimming on top. Don’t ignore the perch fish fry on Fridays, and save room for a square of fluffy torte, arguably an indigenous dessert for the area. Picture a combo of graham cracker crust, instant pudding, whipped topping and assorted mix-ins. Poppyseed is particularly popular here.
CLINTON KITCHEN 608.676.4461; 239 ALLEN ST., CLINTON Pride in pie defines this Rock County business, owned by the same family for more than four decades. Connie Farrell and her crew make pies every morning, typically stocking a dozen choices. Tortes draw a crowd, too, and some customer habits are predictable. “When we make Butterfinger torte,” the owner reveals, “one guy eats it for breakfast.” The biggest crowds show up for the Friday night fish buffet, which includes potato pancakes, quick breads and unusual salads (sauerkraut salad, Snickers-apple salad and yum-yum salad – whipped Jell-O plus pineapple). Forget about counter seating for this meal – the counter turns into the buffet table.
DELTA DINER 715.372.6666; 14385 HIGHWAY H, DELTA What a lovely surprise to find a shiny, retro and refurbished 1940 Silk City diner when driving inside Chequamegon-Nicolet National Forest in southern Bayfield County. Even in a remote setting the menu is anything but ordinary. Sure, standard breakfast and sandwich fare are possible, but pay attention to the hash of the day (like reuben-pastrami) and blue-plate specials: Wild Rice Turkey Casserole, Delta Hot Cakes (with jalapeños), White Chili and more. Owner-cook Todd Bucher also specializes in good karma.
FRANKS DINER 262.657.1017; 508 58TH ST., KENOSHA A homely little box of a business, Franks has a rich history of serving up great diner fare in tight spaces. Look inside for the heart of the operation, a railroad lunch car that horses pulled into downtown Kenosha in 1926. The slim string of booths was added later. Fill up on a Garbage Plate – eggs, hash browns, meat and veggies, but even half an order (that’s three eggs) might be more than enough to handle. Expect a little funny and direct ’tude from the hard-at-work staff. “Be nice or leave,” the menu advises. “If we are crowded and you are short on time, we suggest you join us on another day.”
KOFFEE KUP 608.873.6717; 355 E. MAIN ST., STOUGHTON A bottomless cup of coffee costs only 80 cents, which sits especially well in Stoughton because locals say this is where the coffee break originated. Add delectable pie choices from owners Kendall and Trish Gulseth that vary with the season, like Fruit of the Forest (filled with an assortment of berries). Being open for supper and having a liquor license distinguish the Koffee Kup from other diners. The outgrowth seems natural because of the growing number of shows staged at the neighboring Stoughton Opera House, also owned by the Gulseths since 1989.
MICKIES DAIRY BAR 608.256.9476; 1511 MONROE ST., MADISON Almost in the shadow of Camp Randall stadium, hungry Wisconsin Badger athletes and fans since 1947 have migrated to Mickies for hefty portions of basic food favorites. Attempt to eat breakfast here on a weekend, especially a football Saturday, and you’ll likely wait for seating in a line that runs outside of the entrance. Order fat pancakes doused with powdered sugar, wide slabs of blueberry coffeecake or egg scramblers with “yanks” (American fries cooked crisp) and sausage. Look for the menu on the wall above the kitchen. You’ll see liver and onions, but a much more popular offering is the assortment of thick shakes and malts.
PICADILLY LILLY DINER 608.583.3318; E2513 HIGHWAY JJ, LONE ROCK Located near Sauk County’s Tri-County Regional Airport, many diners here are in transit. Small-plane pilots can taxi up nearly to the front door, much to the amusement of the diners inside. The diner, a former weather station, promises “lotsa sausage” in its biscuits and gravy, which costs $2.75 for one-fourth of an order. That should clue you in about portions versus prices.
ROCKS FOR FUN CAFE 715.535.2008; N4410 HIGHWAY 45, TIGERTON This incredible place rocks – literally – with google-eyed faces and whimsical messages that owner Don McClellan has added to the more than 300 rocks (pebble- to boulder-sized) outside the diner. The theme carries through to the inside with Marriage on the Rocks, Jailhouse Rock and Rock Fan condiment holders, wall hangings and other items of décor. What McClellan has created is a rock-solid collection in Shawano County that he continues to expand and declines to sell. To eat: 10 types of Rockin-Pocket pasties (meat-veggie turnovers) and Sweet Rocks (cake-like doughnut holes with cinnamon sugar, served warm).
SKIPPER’S 715.536.9914; 812 E. FIRST ST., MERRILL Owner Rick Scott sells his popular chicken dumpling soup by the cup or quart, and the Chicago transplant has more recently added Windy City food favorites. That means Chicago-style hot dogs and authentic tamales from an ethnic Chicago vendor. Gone is the baked chicken special on Thursdays, substituted by an all-you-can-eat Polish sausage platter. The proprietor says most people reach their fill after three or four plump sausage slices. Expect a nautical theme, similar to what the original owner put in place when he opened the place in 1937.
SOLLY’S GRILLE 414.332.8808; 4629 N. PORT WASHINGTON RD., MILWAUKEE Two horseshoe-shaped counters – plus just a table or two – make it likely and easy to interact with other diners here, which adds a neighborly feel to a big-city business, family-owned since 1936. People arrive at all hours for burgers and shakes, including Andrew Zimmern of the Travel Channel who visited a few months ago. A basic burger arrives dripping with butter. Ask for fried onions, and the portion will rival the size of the meat. Patty Nichols, chief dishwasher, also makes the in-demand caramel apple cinnamon pie.
Mary Bergin seeks, encounters and patronizes diners routinely during research for her weekly “Roads Traveled” column, roadstraveled.com.
